![]() Well.if the lines and the calipers have been bled thoroughly I can't think of anywhere else that there may be air other than the MC. Could the master cyclinder be defective or could a generic master cyclinder be the problem too ? Is there a way to check the master cyclinder for air other than taking the master cyclinder off? How is bench bleeding performed? Is this a project I can do at home or should I take my vehicle back to the service shop and have them repair it. Please advise of solutions in a detailed manner since I must follow your suggestions along with my Thunderbird shop manual open for diagrams to understand. I have had the system checked and there is no air in the lines.īefore I go off and purchase a new power brake booster what steps can I take to see if the master cyclinder is defective or if I have leaking hoses? ![]() I have driven the 63' for 2 months and I continue to have this issue. My brake pedal went 3/4 of the way to the floorboard and stops prior to touching the floorboard. After the repair shop replaced the master cyclinder with a generic brand, replaced the brake shoes and bled the brake system I notice a difference immediately when I applied the brake pedal. I remembered my power brake booster was working properly and the brake pedal would require pressure to depress. When I took my 63' in for repairs I noticed I had issues with the master cyclinder. ![]() I felt nothing from the pedal and it made me think about a recent master cyclinder replacement completed on my Thunderbird and the difference in braking prior to the master cyclinder replacement. I depressed my brake pedal and turn on the engine. After reading abaum's question regarding power brake issues, I went out to my 63' and followed the directions given to test the effectiveness of the power brake booster.
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